How Dogs Learn by Deb Norman

Reward-based training, the “modern” way to train.

Years ago dog training used to be based on showing the dog that something bad would happen to him if he didn’t do certain things. Research and experience showed that dogs learned and retained just as well or better with the use of rewards rather than punishment. The simplest reward to use is food. Perhaps you feel uncomfortable about using food, thinking that it is “bribing” the dog, or that he is working for the food instead of “for you.” The fact is that dogs don’t do things for us, they do what works for them. This doesn’t mean they aren’t devoted to us, and desirous of being with us. It just means that our emotional well-being is not on their radar screens.

In order to train successfully we need to put aside the notion of our dogs working to please us, as well as the idea of dominating our dogs. Think instead of your dog as an inveterate gambler, constantly trying out different behaviors in the hope of being rewarded. Rewards come from the environment, of which we are a part. Put yourself in the position of being the reward, giving positive feedback to the dog in the forms of food, play, physical contact and whatever else you discover that your dog likes. In this way you help him find out what behaviors are worth repeating. Dogs are no different from any other organism: any behavior that is rewarded will be repeated in the hope of further reward, will become stronger, and will eventually become part of the dog’s repertoire of frequent behaviors.

 

Your clicker is a powerful tool for communicating with your dog.

It allows you to signal the dog exactly what is right, what has earned him a reward. First the sound of the clicker is paired with food, so the dog knows that the click means a treat is coming. With it you can “mark” a specific behavior. “That’s it,” says the clicker. It is like a check, a promise of payment. If you click and don’t reward it is like “bouncing” a check. In the early stages of teaching a behavior it is important to reward every time.

The clicker is not a remote control. You should not use it to get the dog’s attention, or to cause a behavior to happen. It is very important to restrict the use of the clicker to training, by someone who knows how to use it. Random use of the clicker (such as by small children) dilutes the power of the clicker.

 

So how do we teach our dogs to do the things we want?

We must decide what we want, and communicate to the dog what it is. Will a command work? Not if the dog doesn’t know to associate the command with a particular action, and one that he knows will be rewarded. Save the command for later.  Instead:

Cause a behavior to happen by luring the dog to do it a few times

Let the dog know exactly what you like by using a click at the moment he does what you want.

Deliver the reward reasonably promptly with the dog in the desired position if possible.

Build up fluency (familiarity) with the behavior by frequent repetition.

Associate a command with the behavior once it is really happening

Practice the new behavior (with command) in a variety of places and situations. Hundreds of repetitions are necessary.

Start rewarding randomly. Gradually reduce the treats to zero. This takes weeks or months, not days or hours.

 

What do we do when the dog does things we don’t like?

We have a variety of options. If the behavior is one that is undesirable but not really objectionable, try just ignoring it. For example, a dog solicits play by bringing you a toy. If you are busy, just turn away. Don’t let yourself be pressured into paying attention to the dog when it is inconvenient. If the dog persists in pushing the toy at you do not give in and start playing. That is a way the dog manipulates you and establishes a sort of leadership over you. Instead quietly exile the dog, either to his crate or perhaps another room or outside. If the play-solicitation is not annoying try using this as an opportunity to practice. Request a known behavior, and when the dog obeys toss the toy as a reward.

If the dog does something you really dislike you can punish the behavior, using something aversive but not harmful. Then you teach a new behavior to replace the old one. For example, jumping up can be punished by stepping away so the jump doesn’t “work,” by walking into the dog’s “space” or by using a verbal reprimand or a squirt of water from a spray bottle. Then immediately encourage a sit, which you can then reward. Many repetitions of this sequence will result in replacement of the jumping with sitting in front.

For behaviors such as barking or counter surfing punishments work best if the dog doesn’t associate them directly with you. Talk to your teacher for specific suggestions.

                                                

Home training tips

Everything begins with attention. If your dog ignores you, where is the relationship? Eye contact is the hallmark of attention, though not its sole component. Always reward eye contact and attention in some way, at least with a word of praise.

Everything you do with a dog teaches him something, so why not maximize those encounters? Instead of picking an unrealistically large block of time for training, try working in small, manageable increments. A dozen one-minute sessions are more useful than a long session, if they are thoughtfully integrated into “real life.” Work at finding opportunities to reward frequently. When teaching a new behavior, try to keep your “rate of reinforcement” high, around 10 times a minute.

 

Take notice of good things your dog does in the course of normal life. Especially with a pup, it is easy to fall into the habit of reprimanding the dog for doing wrong. Some dogs must think their name is “No.” Start carrying treats in your pocket and simply observe and reward good behaviors. Don’t worry about commands. Dogs don’t speak English, no matter how smart they are! Instead reward things like sitting near you, looking attentively, lying quietly. When behaviors are rewarding to a dog they will start showing up more and more often, without your asking for them. We call these “default behaviors,” things a dog does automatically because they are always rewarded. Often these defaults are in place of behaviors that we don’t like. Creating them, and gradually shaping a dog’s behavior into something you like rather than something that makes you crazy, can be done by safely confining the dog when you are unable to pay attention to them and really being aware of them when they are unconfined. Remember that dogs live “in the moment.” Rewards and consequences must happen within a few seconds of the behavior or they have no meaning.

 

Try to be quiet and still while training. Dogs are thinking while being trained, trying to understand how to get a reward. Don’t distract them with random body movements and chatter.

 

Rewards do not always have to be food. Use the environment to reward the dog for behaviors you like. For example, many dogs love to get outside, and often rush through opened doors. Try instituting a rule in your home that doors only open in front of sitting dogs. If your dog wants to go sniff something on a walk, ask for attention first, than allow him to sniff the desired object.

Put aside the idea of your dog “doing work.” Use toys and play and attention from you as rewards for good behavior. If you make the training fun and the exercises indistinguishable from play, your training will be much more successful, as well as more pleasurable for both of you.

As soon as a behavior is good at home, “take it on the road.” Go to different places to try it out. At first, simply different areas of the house are helpful, then the street in front, or a nearby park or block of stores. Because dogs do not generalize well each time you go to a new spot you will have to step back a little to help the behavior happen. As more new places are added and the dog becomes more confident with the behavior, each makes less difference to the dog. This process aids in learning, and when the dog is solid in the behavior everywhere, you have fluency and are ready to start weaning your dog off of the food gradually. We will treat this subject in class as we move along. 

 

The goal of training should be to turn your dog’s attention toward you.

If you are the most fascinating thing in your dog’s universe, always unpredictable and likely to start a fun game or produce a good treat, he has no need to look elsewhere for entertainment. You become the center of his world, a source of stimulation and fun. Lest you think this is a one-way street, with you becoming simply a dog diversion machine, we can assure you that the dog will more than hold up his end of the relationship, always ready to do something with you, always attentive and up for something interesting. Anyone contemplating participation in dog sports such as obedience, agility or flyball should strive to build this sort of relationship. Dogs that run away or that are constantly distracted by smells or other dogs or people need to have their interest in their owner enhanced; they are looking elsewhere because their owner is boring. A high rate of reinforcement, in other words, frequent treats for small bits of good behavior, is the first step along this road. Remember, you control the good stuff.

 

In all your training remember the “R” words:

REINFORCEMENT (rewards make a behavior happen again)

REPETITION (lots of quick repetitions build fluency)

REALITY (training as part of life, not a separate thing)

 

Rewards and Reinforcements

 

Make a list of the things your dogs likes.  Most dogs love treats. Some will gobble up anything. Others like a food at home, but in the greater distraction of a class or other public setting they ignore it. In that case you will have to find a “higher value” of treat. The list below may give you some ideas:

 

Low value treats                         High value treats

Kibble, his own or different             String cheese

Dry dog biscuits in small bits           Hot dogs, raw or microwaved

Cheerios                                      Freeze-dried liver (Benny Bully’s Liver Chops)

Crackers                                      Fresh Pet — “Dog Joy”

Tiny carrots

                                                 “The Big Guns”

Medium value treats                    Canned cheese (squeeze cheese)

Dry cat food                                 Garlic chicken

Semi-moist cat or dog treats           Any real meat

 

Play as a reward. Don’t get stuck with just using food. Interactive play reinforces the concept of YOU as the most exciting thing in your dog’s world. Tugging is an excellent game, and, contrary to popular belief, does not cause or increase aggression. It actually diffuses stress and focuses the dog on you. It is important to teach a good “drop it” command. We will show you how to do that in class. Playing fetch with balls or other toys is good too, provided the dog returns to continue the game, rather than taking the toy and running off. That problem can be fixed, but until it is, fetching cannot be used as a reward.

Rewards from the environment. Anything your dog wants can be used as a reward. Using desired activities is a sophisticated way of training, and extremely effective. If your dog wants to go outside to run around, the opening of the door is a powerful reward. Don’t waste the training opportunity! Doors should only open in front of sitting dogs. A ride in the car is very fun for some dogs. Call them to you, then put them in the car for a short ride. Playing with other dogs is almost always a favorite activity. Reward a sit with eye contact with release to play. Never release a dog that is straining to get away. Never open a door when the dog is pushing through. These habits are reinforced (accidentally) by your allowing them to “work” for the dog. Start controlling the environment.

To microwave hot dogs try this excellent recipe:

Take 2 poultry hot dogs; slice them lengthwise into three sections. Turn them and slice again, so you have nine thin strips. Cut crosswise into tiny bits. Spread out on a paper towel and microwave on HIGH for five to six minutes (depending on your microwave). They come out all dry and nice. Beef doesn’t work as well – they get all greasy and sort of burned.

 

© Deb Norman 2007  All Rights Reserved

 

Return to Poodle Info

This document was written as an introduction to the dog training methods used at Y2K9s Dog Sports Club in Wyndmoor PA. Thanks to Deb Norman for permission to post it here. For more information about dog training and dog sports, see www.y2k9s.net

 

“Like the laws of gravity, the laws of learning are in effect at all times. Whether or not we want to use them is up to us.”

 

“The first breakthrough for many dog owners is recognizing that their principle role in obedience training is to give feedback, as opposed to giving commands.”

 

— Jean Donaldson, The Culture Clash